Information on Men's Suits

Men wear suits for all occasions.

Suits are the staple of the modern workingman's wardrobe. The versatile attire fits occasions from classy dinners with loved ones to forlorn appearance in the third district court of appeals. A suit can be anything from a 10,000 naira, pick up at a thrift store to a beautiful hand made piece.

HISTORY

The modern suit has its roots in 19th century England. As the English court began to bureaucratize, and the Prime Minister leveraged power from the crown, the country moved away from the pomp and circumstance of the regal continental style popularized by the court of France. Tailors came to dominate countrywide fashion, developing a new style of clothing throughout the century that emphasized style over ornamentation. These 19th century British fashions would evolve into the modern men's suit. The industrial revolution would allow for mass productivity, further popularizing the style, while making it more affordable.

MEASUREMENT

Measuring a man for a suit should take between 15 and 20 minutes. Measurements include the neck, chest, waist, shoulders, arms, seat, inside and outside leg, crotch, thigh, knee, and ankle. Additional measurements, depending on the thoroughness of the tailor, can include shirt length, jacket length, and trouser waist, the latter being a different measurement than simply "waist." While tailors properly measure men for suits, it's possible to self measure at home. This is important for men who buy off-the-rack suits, who need to get idea of sizes

SUMMER SUITS

Summer suits are generally light cotton weaves that are well ventilated, making them ideal to the heat of the season. The suits come in light colors, such as white, tan, and khaki, so as to not attract too much heat from the sun. According to the Esquire's Summer Suit Manual, the summer suit is resultant of the New Deal, which provided men with more disposable income, which in turn was spent on clothing for the summer months. The style is ideal for those who work through the summer, and need formal dress that breathes

OTHER STYLES

Men's Suit Guide lists four styles of suits for men: 2 Button, 3 Button, Double-Breasted, and Mandarin. According to the Guide's online description, "The Mandarin is the most unique of the four as it is influenced by more traditional eastern cultures." The online Guide to Men's Suits lists Italian, American, and English as additional styles. Italian suits are double-breasted with slight shoulder pads, while the American style is single-breasted with a flat-fronted pant and the English style is a three-buttoned jacket with pleated pants.

TAILORS AND MANUFACTURERS

A tailored suit is one custom made to the specific measurements of a man. Because the suits are handcrafted by tailors and specially commissioned, they are significantly more expensive than store bought suits, no matter the brand. Two young companies---Canada-based Indochino and Chicago-based Nicholas Joseph Custom Tailors---offer tailor-made suits that are outsourced to Asia, where local tailors complete the pieces to specification. Companies like Armani, Boss, and Versace traffic in high-quality suit available off the rack.

How to Purchase a Quality Men's Suit

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Full-length mirror (if the suit is for yourself)
• The wearer's best-fitting suit
• Notebook
• pen

1. Step1
   Invest in a tailor-made suit for the best fit and the inimitable quality of a suit designed for the wearer. The Ask Men website recommends choosing quality fabric rather than a brand name and customizing a classic suit rather than going with a fashion trend. An experienced tailor takes all the mystery out of the details of buttons, pockets, sleeve length, slacks length and the best cut for the wearer's build.
2. Step2
   Find an experienced tailor by referral, if possible. Department stores that carry quality men's suits offer this service. Call for an appointment.
3. Step3
   Look at the suits worn by men in the wearer's profession and pay attention to colors, patterns, styles: single breasted, double breasted, 1-button, 2-button, 3-button, American or closer-fitting English or European suits. Browse magazines and websites to learn more about contemporary suits and the options available. Save or print images of suits that meet your criteria for the new suit. The more prepared you are to communicate preferences for the suit, the easier it will be to communicate them to the tailor. Plan ahead to decide on color, weight, pockets, lapels, and buttons.
4. Step4
   Meet with the tailor. Tell him whether the objective is a business suit or a suit for formal occasions and your preferences in color and style. Bring pictures as examples. He'll take the measurements and provide fabric options. Ask questions to determine the best weight of fabric for the seasons and settings the wearer uses the suit for.
5. Step5
   Return for the suit fitting appointment. Check the trousers and sleeve lengths. Examine how the suit coat fits across the back. Check the fit in various positions, such as reaching and sitting. Check the waist and the rise of the trousers (how they fit in the groin). Take your time. The tailor will make any necessary adjustments and finish the suit.
6. Step6
   Achieve the next best thing to a tailor made suit by having a ready-made suit tailored to fit the wearer. Retailers specializing in suits and better department stores offer tailoring service. Examine the suit on the wearer (or yourself) and assess the length of the trousers, the fit at the waist, and whether the sleeves are the right length. The trousers should touch the shoes and show a break (a slight bend in the fabric). The suit coat sleeves should show a 1/2 inch of shirt cuff

   Men's Styles in Suits

   1. 
      Classic suit cut
      There are hundreds of designers that dictate the trends and current fashions in menswear. However, when it comes to suits, there are four basic styles: American, Italian, English and Mandarin. Designers dissect the basic styles and then combine different aspects from each to create a variation to present to the public as the most fashionable clothing statement. Essentially, all suits fit into one of the principal categories.

   American Suits

   2. American suits traditionally have two buttons, medium-sized lapels and three outside flap pockets paired with un-cuffed, flat-front pants. The jackets are of single vent design with natural shoulders, while the pants are angled to present a natural break at the shoes. American suits are ideal for gentlemen with prominent chests, due to the v-shaped styling of the jacket that accentuates the pectorals. The pants are of a lean cut, showing the suit wearer's fitness.

   Italian Suits

   3. Italian suits are also referred to as European suits throughout the fashion industry. A standard Italian suit is double-breasted (wide, overlapping front flaps with a double row of parallel buttons), large-sized lapels and slit pockets. The jacket shoulders are often lightly padded to add bulk while leaving the impression of natural stature. The pants have pleated fronts with button pockets in the back and slit pockets in the front, plus cuffs at the shoe. Italian suits look best on tall, lean builds but can be worn by all types. It was believed that short, stocky men were unable to successfully wear an Italian suit to its best advantage, but tailors have discovered that a simple adjustment to the buttons will modify the suit to fit properly and present the desired appearance.

   English Suits

   4. The English suit offers the most classic of cuts for the most elegant appearance. The jackets have medium-sized lapels, three buttons with three outside pockets, double venting and padded shoulders. The pants are pleated with a quarter-inch cuff breaking at the shoe. English suits are commonly designed with pinstripes or plaid weaving. This suit is ideal for all body types, flattering both strong and weak physiques.

   Mandarin Suits

   5. Mandarin suits are unique in design and reflect Eastern cultures. The jackets have short collars that stand straight up (similar to the daily jacket of a priest) and have five to six buttons. The jackets are intended to be buttoned to the top, closing at the neck and leaving only the smallest hint of the shirt beneath. The pants have flat fronts with slit pockets and are commonly without cuffs. Mandarin suits are traditionally black and are complemented by Mandarin-style shirts along with a colorful pocket square to add personality. These suits present the best appearance on shorter, thinner physiques.

   
   

   THE BEST LOW PRICE SUITS FOR MEN

   1. When it comes to suits, many men prefer Italian makers for their quality in fabric, workmanship and style, but Italian suits can be costly, with price tags from the mid-hundreds to several thousand dollars. Those who are unable to spend a lot for a suit but want to project a polished, fashionable image can find well-made, stylish suits by some of fashion's biggest designer names at a discount--if they know where to look.

   Jones New York

   2. Jones New York (JNY) makes suits for both men and women. They have long enjoyed the reputation of producing a quality product. You can purchase JNY suits at Nordstrom, Macy's, J.C. Penney and most other department stores. The cost of their suits is normally from $450 to $1,500. eSuit.com sells Jones New York suits online at $229 each. Contact them by phone at 888-879-7848 or visit them at eSuit.com.

   Calvin Klein

   3. Calvin Klein has a longstanding reputation for style and quality. You can find their suits in almost every department store, from the most exclusive to discount stores around the country. If you are looking to purchase a suit online, check out the lineup on ExecStyle.com or call them at 877-393-2789. There you can purchase a Calvin Klein suit for $290, with the jackets priced at $195 and the trousers for $95.

   Ralph Lauren

   4. Ralph Lauren started out more than 40 years ago selling a collection of ties, but the company has grown into manufacturing not only a full line of clothing and accessories, but fragrances as well. Their suits can be very costly, at $550 on the low end and $3,000 or more on the high end. DeCalo Fashion.com offers a 54% discount off the retail price of Ralph Lauren suits, so you can purchase a $550 suit for $239. If you join their club, you can get an additional 10% discount on your purchases. You can phone them for more information at 888-933-2256.

   Sean John

   5. Whatever name you know him by--Puff Daddy, P. Diddy or his proper name of Sean Combs--his style pioneered the change in the way many rappers dress. His clothing line has become extremely popular because of its style and reasonable pricing. Priced at retail from $295 to $395, you can purchase a Sean John suit from seanjohn.com for as little as $137. Contact them by phone at 866-547-5322.

   Joseph A. Bank

   6. If you're looking for quality at a reasonable price, look no further. Jos. A. Bank has wool business suits that are normally priced at $550 for $199 if you purchase them from their online store at josbank.com. Their three-button wool suit with pleated-front trousers comes with two dress shirts and two ties at no additional charge.