When employees are working on your office computers, you expect them to work, right? If you have an IT staff or on-call consultant you might already have ways to prevent employees from drifting into the tempting time sinks of instant messaging, network gaming, video services, and more. But you can set up a range of blockades on your own, without having to hire anyone. I'll explain the simplest method first, port blocking.PEOPLE WHO READ THIS ALSO READ:
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Your PC segments its networking traffic across thousands of virtual ports, sort of like strands of thread in the same rope. AOL Instant Messenger keeps things tidy by communicating on one port, web traffic goes through another, and FTP downloads get their own path. Nearly every service gets routed to a distinct port; visit Wikipedia for a growing list of them all.
Armed with the knowledge of which applications use which ports, you just have to configure your router firewall to block access from your network. Follow your router's instructions to visit its configuration page; you
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PrintWhen employees are working on your office computers, you expect them to work, right? If you have an IT staff or on-call consultant you might already have ways to prevent employees from drifting into the tempting time sinks of instant messaging, network gaming, video services, and more. But you can set up a range of blockades on your own, without having to hire anyone. I'll explain the simplest method first, port blocking.
PEOPLE WHO READ THIS ALSO READ:
- 6,826 PEOPLE VIEWED THIS
- 10,889 PEOPLE VIEWED THIS
- 8,285 PEOPLE VIEWED THIS
- 852 PEOPLE VIEWED THIS
- 3,730 PEOPLE VIEWED THIS
Your PC segments its networking traffic across thousands of virtual ports, sort of like strands of thread in the same rope. AOL Instant Messenger keeps things tidy by communicating on one port, web traffic goes through another, and FTP downloads get their own path. Nearly every service gets routed to a distinct port; visit Wikipedia for a growing list of them all.
Armed with the knowledge of which applications use which ports, you just have to configure your router firewall to block access from your network. Follow your router's instructions to visit its configuration page; you
From Your PC to Your TV
Lincoln Spector, PC World
Apr 19, 2010 7:32 am
Sue Koost wants to get video from her PC to display on her television.
This could be very easy. It could also be impossible. It all depends on what connectors you have on both the PC and the TV. Here are your most likely options, from the best to the worst.
HDMI to HDMI: If both devices have HDMI connectors, you're in luck. One simple cable will give the best picture and sound that your TV can handle.
If you don't get any sound, you may have to change Windows' audio output device settings. In Windows 7 or Vista, right-click the speaker icon in the system tray and select Sounds. Click the Playback tab and select Digital Audio (HDMI).
PCI to HDMI: If your computer lacks an HDMI connector, it might still have PCI. With the right adapter or cable, this will work just fine. I've seen adapters for as little as $10.
These two standards send and receive identical digital video streams, making them easily compatible. The only differences: DVI carries no audio signal, and the connector looks funny.
The adapter takes care of the funny-looking connector, but you probably can't get sound from your computer to your HDTV if you're going over DVI. The television was built on the assumption that an HDMI signal would carry its own audio, so there may be no audio inputs associated with the HDMI connectors.
The solution is to bypass the TV speakers. If you have a separate receiver (a good idea in a home theater), plug your PC's audio output into that. You may need a Y-adapter audio cable with a one-eighth-inch stereo mini plug (like the one used by your headphones or earbuds) on one end, and two standard RCA audio connectors on the other. Or you can set up some computer speakers.
VGA to VGA: If your PC lacks HDMI and PCI outputs, it almost certainly has a VGA connector. And I have yet to see an HDTV without a VGA port (which it may identify as RGB, PC, or RGB PC). VGA can send any signal your PC and HDTV can handle.
At least, it can if you get it to work properly. Getting a good VGA signal on a television involves tweaking settings on both the PC and the TV. Start by reading the VGA section of your HDTV's manual.
How successful you'll be, and how much work that success requires, depends on your TV. My experience is that newer sets are pretty much plug-and-play in their VGA connection, but older ones give you grief. Some simply cannot give you a decent picture.
Not all HDTVs supply an audio input associated with the VGA connector. If yours doesn't, see the last paragraph of the PCI to HDMI section above.
S-Video to S-Video: If both devices have an S-Video connector, and they share nothing better, buy an S-Video cable and connect them. Then use a Y-adapter audio cable to connect your PC's audio to the audio inputs associated with the TV's S-Video connector.
This is a strictly analog, standard definition setup. Your TV will get nothing digital, and nothing HD. But it's simple and it works.
None of the above: If none of these matches work for you, you're out of luck. You're not going to get that particular PC working with that particular TV. Sure, you can buy a VGA to S-Video connector; I've tried several. I've yet to find one that worked.
This could be very easy. It could also be impossible. It all depends on what connectors you have on both the PC and the TV. Here are your most likely options, from the best to the worst.
HDMI to HDMI: If both devices have HDMI connectors, you're in luck. One simple cable will give the best picture and sound that your TV can handle.
If you don't get any sound, you may have to change Windows' audio output device settings. In Windows 7 or Vista, right-click the speaker icon in the system tray and select Sounds. Click the Playback tab and select Digital Audio (HDMI).
PCI to HDMI: If your computer lacks an HDMI connector, it might still have PCI. With the right adapter or cable, this will work just fine. I've seen adapters for as little as $10.
These two standards send and receive identical digital video streams, making them easily compatible. The only differences: DVI carries no audio signal, and the connector looks funny.
The adapter takes care of the funny-looking connector, but you probably can't get sound from your computer to your HDTV if you're going over DVI. The television was built on the assumption that an HDMI signal would carry its own audio, so there may be no audio inputs associated with the HDMI connectors.
The solution is to bypass the TV speakers. If you have a separate receiver (a good idea in a home theater), plug your PC's audio output into that. You may need a Y-adapter audio cable with a one-eighth-inch stereo mini plug (like the one used by your headphones or earbuds) on one end, and two standard RCA audio connectors on the other. Or you can set up some computer speakers.
VGA to VGA: If your PC lacks HDMI and PCI outputs, it almost certainly has a VGA connector. And I have yet to see an HDTV without a VGA port (which it may identify as RGB, PC, or RGB PC). VGA can send any signal your PC and HDTV can handle.
At least, it can if you get it to work properly. Getting a good VGA signal on a television involves tweaking settings on both the PC and the TV. Start by reading the VGA section of your HDTV's manual.
How successful you'll be, and how much work that success requires, depends on your TV. My experience is that newer sets are pretty much plug-and-play in their VGA connection, but older ones give you grief. Some simply cannot give you a decent picture.
Not all HDTVs supply an audio input associated with the VGA connector. If yours doesn't, see the last paragraph of the PCI to HDMI section above.
S-Video to S-Video: If both devices have an S-Video connector, and they share nothing better, buy an S-Video cable and connect them. Then use a Y-adapter audio cable to connect your PC's audio to the audio inputs associated with the TV's S-Video connector.
This is a strictly analog, standard definition setup. Your TV will get nothing digital, and nothing HD. But it's simple and it works.
None of the above: If none of these matches work for you, you're out of luck. You're not going to get that particular PC working with that particular TV. Sure, you can buy a VGA to S-Video connector; I've tried several. I've yet to find one that worked.
Peter's motherboard died. How can he retrieve the data on his hard drive?
I'm amazed that in this world of cheap external hard drives and near-universal broadband, people are still not backing up their data. It's real simple, folks: You should never have only one copy of anything.
If you want some advice about getting into the backup habit, see 7 Backup Strategies for Your Data, Multimedia, and System Files.
Be glad it was the motherboard that died and not the hard drive. If that were the case, you'd have to send the drive to a data recovery service that would charge you hundreds or even thousands of dollars to recover your data...if your data was recoverable.
But with a dead motherboard, you got off easy. All you need is an adapter that turns an internal IDE or SATA drive into an external USB drive. The Bytecc USB 2.0 Drive Mate is pretty good.
Remove the drive from the PC, plug it into the Bytecc, plug the Bytecc into a PC's USB port, and you have access to your old hard drive.
I'm amazed that in this world of cheap external hard drives and near-universal broadband, people are still not backing up their data. It's real simple, folks: You should never have only one copy of anything.
If you want some advice about getting into the backup habit, see 7 Backup Strategies for Your Data, Multimedia, and System Files.
Be glad it was the motherboard that died and not the hard drive. If that were the case, you'd have to send the drive to a data recovery service that would charge you hundreds or even thousands of dollars to recover your data...if your data was recoverable.
But with a dead motherboard, you got off easy. All you need is an adapter that turns an internal IDE or SATA drive into an external USB drive. The Bytecc USB 2.0 Drive Mate is pretty good.
Remove the drive from the PC, plug it into the Bytecc, plug the Bytecc into a PC's USB port, and you have access to your old hard drive.
Jeremy Sutherland wants advice on keeping his laptop healthy.
Last month I discussed general PC maintenance, so this time I'll stick to laptop-specific issues. You're more likely to damage a laptop than a desktop PC (no one has ever driven off, forgetting the desktop on top of their car), and once damaged, laptops are harder and more expensive to repair.
Keep the battery cool. Today's lithium batteries wear out no matter what you do, but you can postpone the inevitable. Avoid heat and use the battery as little as possible. If you're going to be running on AC power for awhile, shut down or hibernate the computer, remove the battery, and work without it.
Be careful about eating and drinking. Spill coffee on your desktop keyboard, and you'll have to spend $15 on a generic replacement you can plug in yourself. Spill it on your laptop keyboard, and you could short out the motherboard. I'll admit that I use my laptop in cafes just like everyone else, but I put my tea as far from the electronics as my table allows.
When home, turn it into a desktop. You don't always need portability. When working at your desk, plug in a full-sized monitor, keyboard, and mouse. Not only does this get around the food and beverage problem discussed above, but it protects items far more valuable than your laptop--your arms, hands, and eyes. You can't set up a proper, ergonomic working environment with a small keyboard attached to a small monitor.
Find the right carrying case. Before taking it on the road, pack the laptop properly. Depending on your carrying preferences, look for a carrying case, backpack, or shoulder bag with a padded section designed especially for a laptop. (I use a backpack because the even distribution of weight is better for my spine.)
Clean the keyboard properly. When keys starts sticking, it's time for a cleaning. Shut down the PC. Keep it open as you turn it upside-down and very gently tap on the back so that crumbs fall out. Then use a can of compressed air (you can buy this at any computer store for a few dollars) to blow out whatever is still stuck. Be sure to read the instructions on the can, first. Then turn the PC upside-down and tap it gently again to get the last bits out.
Clean the screen when it needs it. If you can't see the email for the dirt, it's time to do a little cleaning. Start with a dry, microfiber cloth--the sort you get at an optometrist's office (you can also buy them at photo and computer stores). Move it in circular motions. Be gentle, but apply slight pressure on particularly stubborn spots.
If that doesn't clean the screen, make your own cleaning solution by mixing distilled water (make sure it's distilled) and white vinegar in equal proportions into a spray bottle. Turn off your laptop. Spray this mixture lightly onto the microfiber cloth, not onto the monitor. Wipe as described above, then wait ten minutes before booting up.
Last month I discussed general PC maintenance, so this time I'll stick to laptop-specific issues. You're more likely to damage a laptop than a desktop PC (no one has ever driven off, forgetting the desktop on top of their car), and once damaged, laptops are harder and more expensive to repair.
Keep the battery cool. Today's lithium batteries wear out no matter what you do, but you can postpone the inevitable. Avoid heat and use the battery as little as possible. If you're going to be running on AC power for awhile, shut down or hibernate the computer, remove the battery, and work without it.
Be careful about eating and drinking. Spill coffee on your desktop keyboard, and you'll have to spend $15 on a generic replacement you can plug in yourself. Spill it on your laptop keyboard, and you could short out the motherboard. I'll admit that I use my laptop in cafes just like everyone else, but I put my tea as far from the electronics as my table allows.
When home, turn it into a desktop. You don't always need portability. When working at your desk, plug in a full-sized monitor, keyboard, and mouse. Not only does this get around the food and beverage problem discussed above, but it protects items far more valuable than your laptop--your arms, hands, and eyes. You can't set up a proper, ergonomic working environment with a small keyboard attached to a small monitor.
Find the right carrying case. Before taking it on the road, pack the laptop properly. Depending on your carrying preferences, look for a carrying case, backpack, or shoulder bag with a padded section designed especially for a laptop. (I use a backpack because the even distribution of weight is better for my spine.)
Clean the keyboard properly. When keys starts sticking, it's time for a cleaning. Shut down the PC. Keep it open as you turn it upside-down and very gently tap on the back so that crumbs fall out. Then use a can of compressed air (you can buy this at any computer store for a few dollars) to blow out whatever is still stuck. Be sure to read the instructions on the can, first. Then turn the PC upside-down and tap it gently again to get the last bits out.
Clean the screen when it needs it. If you can't see the email for the dirt, it's time to do a little cleaning. Start with a dry, microfiber cloth--the sort you get at an optometrist's office (you can also buy them at photo and computer stores). Move it in circular motions. Be gentle, but apply slight pressure on particularly stubborn spots.
If that doesn't clean the screen, make your own cleaning solution by mixing distilled water (make sure it's distilled) and white vinegar in equal proportions into a spray bottle. Turn off your laptop. Spray this mixture lightly onto the microfiber cloth, not onto the monitor. Wipe as described above, then wait ten minutes before booting up.
Raul Maristany wants to add WiFi to aging laptop. Is it possible?
If the laptop has a PC card slot, it should be able to take a wireless PC card. (If the laptop is old enough, the slot may be called PCMCIA--and no, that didn't really stand for People Can't Memorize Computer Industry Acronyms.) However, you should check the requirements for the card before buying it. Modern cards may require more powerful hardware than your old PC.
The drivers are another issue. I very much doubt that any card made today has Windows 95 drivers. Or even Windows 98.
That doesn't mean you can't find such cards. Google wireless pc card and your version of Windows, and you're likely to find some very promising hits. For instance, as I write this, Amazon.com still has two of these in stock, and they're not even used. This is obviously a model that's no longer being made ("Supports Windows 95, 98, Me, NT, and 2000"), but the price is good.
You may have to downgrade your router's security to work with the old card--see your router's manual for instructions. There are dangers to this, of course. If they make you uneasy, use ethernet at home, and WiFi only on unsecure, public networks.
If the laptop has a PC card slot, it should be able to take a wireless PC card. (If the laptop is old enough, the slot may be called PCMCIA--and no, that didn't really stand for People Can't Memorize Computer Industry Acronyms.) However, you should check the requirements for the card before buying it. Modern cards may require more powerful hardware than your old PC.
The drivers are another issue. I very much doubt that any card made today has Windows 95 drivers. Or even Windows 98.
That doesn't mean you can't find such cards. Google wireless pc card and your version of Windows, and you're likely to find some very promising hits. For instance, as I write this, Amazon.com still has two of these in stock, and they're not even used. This is obviously a model that's no longer being made ("Supports Windows 95, 98, Me, NT, and 2000"), but the price is good.
You may have to downgrade your router's security to work with the old card--see your router's manual for instructions. There are dangers to this, of course. If they make you uneasy, use ethernet at home, and WiFi only on unsecure, public networks.
This morning a neighbor asked me if my Internet access was really, really slow the last couple days. (We subscribe to the same ISP.) I said no, it's been just fine. Then I offered him the same suggestion I offer most folks who complain about connectivity problems: power-cycle your modem and router.
In other words, disconnect the power cords from both, wait about 10 seconds, and then plug them back in. In a minute or two, your network will be up and running again, and your Internet access might be its good old speedy self. I say "might be" because there are loads of other possible culprits for pokey Internet connections.
For example, you might have a spyware problem. Windows' Internet settings might be FUBAR (or at least less than optimal). If you're connecting via a wireless router, there could be range issues (see How to Troubleshoot Your Home Network for help with that one).
In most cases, however, it's probably just a router and/or modem in need of rebooting. For the record, my neighbor told me the power-cycling trick worked like a charm. Hmm, maybe I should send him a bill? Nah, I'll just give him a link to Hassle-Free PC. Feel free to do likewise for friends and relatives who need answers to common PC problems!
In other words, disconnect the power cords from both, wait about 10 seconds, and then plug them back in. In a minute or two, your network will be up and running again, and your Internet access might be its good old speedy self. I say "might be" because there are loads of other possible culprits for pokey Internet connections.
For example, you might have a spyware problem. Windows' Internet settings might be FUBAR (or at least less than optimal). If you're connecting via a wireless router, there could be range issues (see How to Troubleshoot Your Home Network for help with that one).
In most cases, however, it's probably just a router and/or modem in need of rebooting. For the record, my neighbor told me the power-cycling trick worked like a charm. Hmm, maybe I should send him a bill? Nah, I'll just give him a link to Hassle-Free PC. Feel free to do likewise for friends and relatives who need answers to common PC problems!
Both Windows XP and Vista come with remote control programs called Remote Assistance, but they're too difficult for a novice to set up. As forum member smax013 explained on this question's original forum post, "you will need to know [the novice's] IP address...AND you will have to have Remote Desktop server function setup to run on her computer...AND you will need to configure any broadband router and/or software firewall on her end to allow the connection through to THAT specific computer."
When a friend or relative calls with a desperate PC problem, and they lack the knowledge to accurately describe what they see on their screen, you don't want to walk them through configuring their router.
One more thing: Remote Assistance doesn't come with the Home editions of XP or Vista--the ones novices are most likely to own.
There are plenty of third-party remote control programs, and while most of them improve upon Remote Assistance, they're still not at the novice level. But when I expressed a dislike for all of them last year (see How to Be a Tech Hero...And Incredibly Popular), a reader going by the handle of Jeketem pointed me to one that I actually like: Skyfex.
Free and web-based, Skyfex requires no software installation beyond ActiveX controls. Both you and your novice go to different pages on the skyfex web site (you need to sign up for a free account; the person you're helping doesn't). After the exchange of a six-digit number, you can see their desktop on your browser. When you click on "their screen," they'll see a shrinking red circle pointing to your target. Click the Request Remote Control button and, with their permission, you can control their computer.
There are downsides. Skyfex only works in Internet Explorer. A single session can't run more than 30 minutes, and only five of those minutes can be used in remote control mode (these time limits disappear with the $30-a-month Pro version). The 'Synchronize clipboard' feature doesn't work...or at least it didn't work for me.
But it's still far and away the easiest remote control system I've found. And for long-distance support, that makes it the best
Wireless routers usually work well with their default settings, but you can tune them for even better performance. Here are a few quick changes that can easily boost your results.
When a friend or relative calls with a desperate PC problem, and they lack the knowledge to accurately describe what they see on their screen, you don't want to walk them through configuring their router.
One more thing: Remote Assistance doesn't come with the Home editions of XP or Vista--the ones novices are most likely to own.
There are plenty of third-party remote control programs, and while most of them improve upon Remote Assistance, they're still not at the novice level. But when I expressed a dislike for all of them last year (see How to Be a Tech Hero...And Incredibly Popular), a reader going by the handle of Jeketem pointed me to one that I actually like: Skyfex.
Free and web-based, Skyfex requires no software installation beyond ActiveX controls. Both you and your novice go to different pages on the skyfex web site (you need to sign up for a free account; the person you're helping doesn't). After the exchange of a six-digit number, you can see their desktop on your browser. When you click on "their screen," they'll see a shrinking red circle pointing to your target. Click the Request Remote Control button and, with their permission, you can control their computer.
There are downsides. Skyfex only works in Internet Explorer. A single session can't run more than 30 minutes, and only five of those minutes can be used in remote control mode (these time limits disappear with the $30-a-month Pro version). The 'Synchronize clipboard' feature doesn't work...or at least it didn't work for me.
But it's still far and away the easiest remote control system I've found. And for long-distance support, that makes it the best
Speed Up Wireless Access
Wireless routers usually work well with their default settings, but you can tune them for even better performance. Here are a few quick changes that can easily boost your results.
Speed kills; at least slow speeds do. To preserve compatibility, Wi-Fi routers let original, 802.11b clients join higher speed networks; the combination is called a mixed network. But part of grandfathering in the old technology slows 802.11g clients to those old speeds. Why run your 2008 gear at 1999 speeds? If you're only using .g--or .n--hardware, set the router to only broadcast on that protocol. If you have a mixture of old and new hardware, especially .b, add an additional, dedicated router for those clients.
Change the channel. The wireless spectrum faces constant crosstalk and interference from other routers. However, you can set your wireless router to a different channel to minimize this interference. Use a program such as NetStumbler to identify the channels of other nearby devices, and set yours to something different.
Go the distance. Wireless speeds slow down the further you go from the router. Consider adding a commercial, external antenna, or make your own reflectors to direct the signal. If your network has to span huge distances, add additional access points in a mesh, WDSconfiguration. Look for a good signal before transmitting big files, especially over a local network. And don't forget about your old friend, wired Ethernet. A good network should have a mixture of wireless and wired capabilities for any situation, such as temporarily plugging in a laptop for a big video transfer
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