B2CAC asked the Answer Line forum why his laptop couldn't connect wirelessly to his router.
Network problems are the thorniest to resolve. They've been known to reduce my vocabulary to curses so strong they'd embarrass Quentin Tarantino.
A big part of the challenge is figuring out where the problem lies. Although I can't promise a solution to B2CAC's particular problem (or anyone else's), I can suggest some simple tests that will help you isolate the cause. Once isolated, it will be easier to fix.
Move around the house. You may simply be trying in a room with a bad signal. Try accessing the network or the Internet from a room closer to the router. If this solves the problem, but you really need access when in the room where you couldn't get WiFi, consider buying a HomePlug device.
Run Windows' network diagnostic. To be honest, I've never seen this fix the problem in XP, but I have in Vista. Right-click the tiny Network icon in the system tray and selectDiagnose and repair (Vista) or Repair (XP). The icons on the left are approximations of the ones in the system tray--the ones on your PC may differ due to network status (for instance, they may have a tiny, red x). Keep your fingers crossed while Windows tries to find and correct the problem.
Try ethernet. Move the laptop into the same room as the router and connect it with an ethernet cable. If you still lack network and Internet access, the problem isn't with your WiFi. See How to Troubleshoot Your Home Network for further suggestions. (My thanks to mphenterprises for suggesting this fix in the original forum discussion.)
Turn off WiFi Security. Bad passwords and incompatible encryption standards cause a lot of WiFi problems, and temporarily turning off encryption will tell you if they're causing yours. I can't tell you exactly how to do this; check your router's manual for directions. You obviously don't want to keep your network unprotected for long, so you'll have to figure out what the problem is so you can turn encryption back on again. Make sure you're using the correct password and that your PC and router support the same encryption protocol.
Try another WiFi enabled device. This could be another computer, a smartphone like the iPhone, or an iTouch. If you don't have anything like that handy, invite someone over who does. Luckily, most WiFi-enabled devices are portable. If that device can access the Internet, the problem is with your computer. If it can't, the problem is with your router, modem, or ISP.
Try the laptop elsewhere. Take it to a café or library that offers WiFi and see what you can do. If you can access the Internet from there, the problem isn't with your PC.
Hopefully, after all of these tests, you'll be able to find the problem and fix it. And if not, you'll at least know which company to call for technical support.
PCWorld's Giant Cable Guide
Here's how to identify every important audio, video, PC, peripheral, and networking cable.
Everyone has had the experience of staring at the back of a machine, device, or gadget, scratching their head, gazing in bewilderment at some unfamiliar cable port.
The fact is, way too many types of cables are out there, and new ones seem to appear suddenly every few weeks. But don't worry: PCWorld has your back.
In this massive guide to the bizarre world of plugs and cables (see box to the right for all sections of the guide), we'll explain nearly every modern connector for computers, TVs, and audio equipment, including which ones to use when you have choices, and which ones you can easily adapt to fit others.
Even if you can find your way around your cables, you might need a refresher for new plug standards, so keep this guide handy as an ongoing reference--we'll update it as new plugs, ports, cables, and cords hit the market
PCWorld's Networking Cable Guide
Ready to set up a home or small-office network? Learn how to identify every important networking cable.
recommendsPCWorld's Giant Cable Guide
Learn how to identify every important audio, video, PC, peripheral, and networking cable.Whether your setup is wired or wireless, we have the cable know-how you need for your network.
Category 5e Ethernet
Use it for: Wired networks linking PCs, printers, and other devices
If you have a choice, select it instead of: Cat 5 and older standards; wired ethernet is still more reliable than Wi-Fi, too, especially when wireless mobility doesn't matter
It's similar in performance and use to: Wi-Fi (especially 802.11n)
It adapts to: Other ethernet versions
Add more ports by: Adding a switch or router to a network; installing an internal PC card on a computer
The latest, most widely used ethernet cable supports up togigabit ethernet connections (as fast as the 10 Gigabit Ethernet standard), but you can use it on slower networks, too. (You're unlikely to own consumer hardware that exceeds gigabit speeds anyway.) Cat 5e cabling replaces Cat 5 and is slightly slower than Cat 6. Most ethernet cables use an 8P8C end, which looks similar to a phone plug but is slightly bigger and has more pins.
Legacy Wi-Fi (aka 802.11b, 802.11g, 802.11a)
Use it for: Wireless-only networks (or bridging wireless networks to wired PCs), phones, PDAs, MP3 players, nearly all laptops
If you have a choice, select it instead of: Bluetooth, wired ethernet (when mobility is more valuable than speed)
It's similar in performance and use to: Wired ethernet
It adapts to: Other Wi-Fi variants
Add more connections by: Installing a wireless PC card or router (PC cards will talk to one other device or network at a time, while routers can network dozens)
Though 802.11n maintains compatibility with older wireless standards, in such a setup the network must operate at the slower, older speeds for all connected devices. ("Dual-band" routers can isolate the old gear on its own wireless radio so that you don't have this drawback.) 802.11b is noticeably slower when transferring local files, while the other variants of Wi-Fi approach speeds similar to those of wired ethernet.
802.11n Wi-Fi
Use it for: Wireless-only networks (or bridging wireless networks to wired PCs), phones, PDAs, MP3 players, nearly all laptops
If you have a choice, select it instead of: Legacy Wi-Fi, wired ethernet (when mobility is more valuable than speed)
It's similar in performance and use to: Wired ethernet
It adapts to: Other Wi-Fi variants
Add more connections by: Installing a wireless PC card or router (PC cards will talk to one other device or network at a time, while routers can network dozens)
Though the actual 802.11n standard is still being finalized, compatible hardware is already common. Theoretically, once the standard is complete, you'll be able to update draft-standard equipment through firmware. 802.11n improves in speed and general performance over legacy Wi-Fi standards.
Recover Files From a NAS
Lincoln Spector, PC WorldApr 26, 2010 7:37 amAfter reading Recover Missing Files, Frederic Hugues asked about recovering them from a networked-attached storage (NAS) drive.
I wish I could simply tell you that my previous advise applies. Unfortunately, most of it doesn't. Your best bet is probably to call the manufacturers of your NAS and see what they recommend.
Part of the problem is that Windows doesn't treat a network drive the same as a local one. It can't. The network drive is already being controlled by its own local operating system (which might be Windows, but in the case of a NAS drive, probably not). When you select a file on a network drive and press the Delete key, all Windows can really do is tell the other OS to delete it. (By the way, this one-OS-working-through-another situation allows you network access of Mac or Linux drives that aren't using a Windows-compatible file system.)
Because Windows doesn't do the deleting, the file won't show up in Windows' recycle bin. It's possible that the NAS operating system has its own recycle bin (perhaps with a different name), but you can't access it through the familiar desktop icon. Check your NAS drive's manual to find out if they offer something like this and how to access it.
Nor can Windows-based file recovery programs like Recuva Portable and File-Rescue Plus work over a network. They need to run directly on the OS that's controlling the hard drive, which must be formatted with a file system they understand.
Will it help to remove the drive from the container and attach it directly to your PC? Probably not. Most NAS systems use Linux, and don't use the Windows-friendly file systems FAT or NTFS. You stand a better chance of success attaching one to a Linux machine and running Linux file recovery software, but that may not work, either. Not all NAS systems use the standard Linux File System.
And if you have two or more drives working together as an array to enhance speed and capacity, that adds a whole other layer of complexity. (On the other hand, if you're using an array for redundancy, your chances of recovery are considerably better. Check your NAS manual or call technical support for advice.)
Finally, two pieces of advice I gave in the earlier article still apply. If you have a good, recent backup, you can restore the files from that. And if you don't have a good backup, the NAS manual and tech support don't help, and your data is worth spending a lot of money, you can use a data recovery service like Ontrack or DriveSavers. Just make sure they know what type of NAS system contained these drives and whether they were part of a RAID.
B2CAC asked the Answer Line forum why his laptop couldn't connect wirelessly to his router.
Network problems are the thorniest to resolve. They've been known to reduce my vocabulary to curses so strong they'd embarrass Quentin Tarantino.
A big part of the challenge is figuring out where the problem lies. Although I can't promise a solution to B2CAC's particular problem (or anyone else's), I can suggest some simple tests that will help you isolate the cause. Once isolated, it will be easier to fix.
Move around the house. You may simply be trying in a room with a bad signal. Try accessing the network or the Internet from a room closer to the router. If this solves the problem, but you really need access when in the room where you couldn't get WiFi, consider buying a HomePlug device.
Run Windows' network diagnostic. To be honest, I've never seen this fix the problem in XP, but I have in Vista. Right-click the tiny Network icon in the system tray and selectDiagnose and repair (Vista) or Repair (XP). The icons on the left are approximations of the ones in the system tray--the ones on your PC may differ due to network status (for instance, they may have a tiny, red x). Keep your fingers crossed while Windows tries to find and correct the problem.
Try ethernet. Move the laptop into the same room as the router and connect it with an ethernet cable. If you still lack network and Internet access, the problem isn't with your WiFi. See How to Troubleshoot Your Home Network for further suggestions. (My thanks to mphenterprises for suggesting this fix in the original forum discussion.)
Turn off WiFi Security. Bad passwords and incompatible encryption standards cause a lot of WiFi problems, and temporarily turning off encryption will tell you if they're causing yours. I can't tell you exactly how to do this; check your router's manual for directions. You obviously don't want to keep your network unprotected for long, so you'll have to figure out what the problem is so you can turn encryption back on again. Make sure you're using the correct password and that your PC and router support the same encryption protocol.
Try another WiFi enabled device. This could be another computer, a smartphone like the iPhone, or an iTouch. If you don't have anything like that handy, invite someone over who does. Luckily, most WiFi-enabled devices are portable. If that device can access the Internet, the problem is with your computer. If it can't, the problem is with your router, modem, or ISP.
Try the laptop elsewhere. Take it to a café or library that offers WiFi and see what you can do. If you can access the Internet from there, the problem isn't with your PC.
Hopefully, after all of these tests, you'll be able to find the problem and fix it. And if not, you'll at least know which company to call for technical support.
PCWorld's Giant Cable Guide
Here's how to identify every important audio, video, PC, peripheral, and networking cable.
B2CAC asked the Answer Line forum why his laptop couldn't connect wirelessly to his router.
Network problems are the thorniest to resolve. They've been known to reduce my vocabulary to curses so strong they'd embarrass Quentin Tarantino.
A big part of the challenge is figuring out where the problem lies. Although I can't promise a solution to B2CAC's particular problem (or anyone else's), I can suggest some simple tests that will help you isolate the cause. Once isolated, it will be easier to fix.
Move around the house. You may simply be trying in a room with a bad signal. Try accessing the network or the Internet from a room closer to the router. If this solves the problem, but you really need access when in the room where you couldn't get WiFi, consider buying a HomePlug device.
Run Windows' network diagnostic. To be honest, I've never seen this fix the problem in XP, but I have in Vista. Right-click the tiny Network icon in the system tray and selectDiagnose and repair (Vista) or Repair (XP). The icons on the left are approximations of the ones in the system tray--the ones on your PC may differ due to network status (for instance, they may have a tiny, red x). Keep your fingers crossed while Windows tries to find and correct the problem.
Try ethernet. Move the laptop into the same room as the router and connect it with an ethernet cable. If you still lack network and Internet access, the problem isn't with your WiFi. See How to Troubleshoot Your Home Network for further suggestions. (My thanks to mphenterprises for suggesting this fix in the original forum discussion.)
Turn off WiFi Security. Bad passwords and incompatible encryption standards cause a lot of WiFi problems, and temporarily turning off encryption will tell you if they're causing yours. I can't tell you exactly how to do this; check your router's manual for directions. You obviously don't want to keep your network unprotected for long, so you'll have to figure out what the problem is so you can turn encryption back on again. Make sure you're using the correct password and that your PC and router support the same encryption protocol.
Try another WiFi enabled device. This could be another computer, a smartphone like the iPhone, or an iTouch. If you don't have anything like that handy, invite someone over who does. Luckily, most WiFi-enabled devices are portable. If that device can access the Internet, the problem is with your computer. If it can't, the problem is with your router, modem, or ISP.
Try the laptop elsewhere. Take it to a café or library that offers WiFi and see what you can do. If you can access the Internet from there, the problem isn't with your PC.
Hopefully, after all of these tests, you'll be able to find the problem and fix it. And if not, you'll at least know which company to call for technical support.
Network problems are the thorniest to resolve. They've been known to reduce my vocabulary to curses so strong they'd embarrass Quentin Tarantino.
A big part of the challenge is figuring out where the problem lies. Although I can't promise a solution to B2CAC's particular problem (or anyone else's), I can suggest some simple tests that will help you isolate the cause. Once isolated, it will be easier to fix.
Move around the house. You may simply be trying in a room with a bad signal. Try accessing the network or the Internet from a room closer to the router. If this solves the problem, but you really need access when in the room where you couldn't get WiFi, consider buying a HomePlug device.
Run Windows' network diagnostic. To be honest, I've never seen this fix the problem in XP, but I have in Vista. Right-click the tiny Network icon in the system tray and selectDiagnose and repair (Vista) or Repair (XP). The icons on the left are approximations of the ones in the system tray--the ones on your PC may differ due to network status (for instance, they may have a tiny, red x). Keep your fingers crossed while Windows tries to find and correct the problem.
Try ethernet. Move the laptop into the same room as the router and connect it with an ethernet cable. If you still lack network and Internet access, the problem isn't with your WiFi. See How to Troubleshoot Your Home Network for further suggestions. (My thanks to mphenterprises for suggesting this fix in the original forum discussion.)
Turn off WiFi Security. Bad passwords and incompatible encryption standards cause a lot of WiFi problems, and temporarily turning off encryption will tell you if they're causing yours. I can't tell you exactly how to do this; check your router's manual for directions. You obviously don't want to keep your network unprotected for long, so you'll have to figure out what the problem is so you can turn encryption back on again. Make sure you're using the correct password and that your PC and router support the same encryption protocol.
Try another WiFi enabled device. This could be another computer, a smartphone like the iPhone, or an iTouch. If you don't have anything like that handy, invite someone over who does. Luckily, most WiFi-enabled devices are portable. If that device can access the Internet, the problem is with your computer. If it can't, the problem is with your router, modem, or ISP.
Try the laptop elsewhere. Take it to a café or library that offers WiFi and see what you can do. If you can access the Internet from there, the problem isn't with your PC.
Hopefully, after all of these tests, you'll be able to find the problem and fix it. And if not, you'll at least know which company to call for technical support.
Everyone has had the experience of staring at the back of a machine, device, or gadget, scratching their head, gazing in bewilderment at some unfamiliar cable port.
The fact is, way too many types of cables are out there, and new ones seem to appear suddenly every few weeks. But don't worry: PCWorld has your back.
In this massive guide to the bizarre world of plugs and cables (see box to the right for all sections of the guide), we'll explain nearly every modern connector for computers, TVs, and audio equipment, including which ones to use when you have choices, and which ones you can easily adapt to fit others.
Even if you can find your way around your cables, you might need a refresher for new plug standards, so keep this guide handy as an ongoing reference--we'll update it as new plugs, ports, cables, and cords hit the market
The fact is, way too many types of cables are out there, and new ones seem to appear suddenly every few weeks. But don't worry: PCWorld has your back.
In this massive guide to the bizarre world of plugs and cables (see box to the right for all sections of the guide), we'll explain nearly every modern connector for computers, TVs, and audio equipment, including which ones to use when you have choices, and which ones you can easily adapt to fit others.
Even if you can find your way around your cables, you might need a refresher for new plug standards, so keep this guide handy as an ongoing reference--we'll update it as new plugs, ports, cables, and cords hit the market
PCWorld's Networking Cable Guide
Ready to set up a home or small-office network? Learn how to identify every important networking cable.
recommends
PCWorld's Giant Cable Guide
Learn how to identify every important audio, video, PC, peripheral, and networking cable.
Whether your setup is wired or wireless, we have the cable know-how you need for your network.
If you have a choice, select it instead of: Cat 5 and older standards; wired ethernet is still more reliable than Wi-Fi, too, especially when wireless mobility doesn't matter
It's similar in performance and use to: Wi-Fi (especially 802.11n)
It adapts to: Other ethernet versions
Add more ports by: Adding a switch or router to a network; installing an internal PC card on a computer
The latest, most widely used ethernet cable supports up togigabit ethernet connections (as fast as the 10 Gigabit Ethernet standard), but you can use it on slower networks, too. (You're unlikely to own consumer hardware that exceeds gigabit speeds anyway.) Cat 5e cabling replaces Cat 5 and is slightly slower than Cat 6. Most ethernet cables use an 8P8C end, which looks similar to a phone plug but is slightly bigger and has more pins.
If you have a choice, select it instead of: Bluetooth, wired ethernet (when mobility is more valuable than speed)
It's similar in performance and use to: Wired ethernet
It adapts to: Other Wi-Fi variants
Add more connections by: Installing a wireless PC card or router (PC cards will talk to one other device or network at a time, while routers can network dozens)
Though 802.11n maintains compatibility with older wireless standards, in such a setup the network must operate at the slower, older speeds for all connected devices. ("Dual-band" routers can isolate the old gear on its own wireless radio so that you don't have this drawback.) 802.11b is noticeably slower when transferring local files, while the other variants of Wi-Fi approach speeds similar to those of wired ethernet.
If you have a choice, select it instead of: Legacy Wi-Fi, wired ethernet (when mobility is more valuable than speed)
It's similar in performance and use to: Wired ethernet
It adapts to: Other Wi-Fi variants
Add more connections by: Installing a wireless PC card or router (PC cards will talk to one other device or network at a time, while routers can network dozens)
Though the actual 802.11n standard is still being finalized, compatible hardware is already common. Theoretically, once the standard is complete, you'll be able to update draft-standard equipment through firmware. 802.11n improves in speed and general performance over legacy Wi-Fi standards.
Category 5e Ethernet
Use it for: Wired networks linking PCs, printers, and other devices
If you have a choice, select it instead of: Cat 5 and older standards; wired ethernet is still more reliable than Wi-Fi, too, especially when wireless mobility doesn't matter
It's similar in performance and use to: Wi-Fi (especially 802.11n)
It adapts to: Other ethernet versions
Add more ports by: Adding a switch or router to a network; installing an internal PC card on a computer
The latest, most widely used ethernet cable supports up togigabit ethernet connections (as fast as the 10 Gigabit Ethernet standard), but you can use it on slower networks, too. (You're unlikely to own consumer hardware that exceeds gigabit speeds anyway.) Cat 5e cabling replaces Cat 5 and is slightly slower than Cat 6. Most ethernet cables use an 8P8C end, which looks similar to a phone plug but is slightly bigger and has more pins.
Legacy Wi-Fi (aka 802.11b, 802.11g, 802.11a)
Use it for: Wireless-only networks (or bridging wireless networks to wired PCs), phones, PDAs, MP3 players, nearly all laptops
If you have a choice, select it instead of: Bluetooth, wired ethernet (when mobility is more valuable than speed)
It's similar in performance and use to: Wired ethernet
It adapts to: Other Wi-Fi variants
Add more connections by: Installing a wireless PC card or router (PC cards will talk to one other device or network at a time, while routers can network dozens)
Though 802.11n maintains compatibility with older wireless standards, in such a setup the network must operate at the slower, older speeds for all connected devices. ("Dual-band" routers can isolate the old gear on its own wireless radio so that you don't have this drawback.) 802.11b is noticeably slower when transferring local files, while the other variants of Wi-Fi approach speeds similar to those of wired ethernet.
802.11n Wi-Fi
Use it for: Wireless-only networks (or bridging wireless networks to wired PCs), phones, PDAs, MP3 players, nearly all laptops
If you have a choice, select it instead of: Legacy Wi-Fi, wired ethernet (when mobility is more valuable than speed)
It's similar in performance and use to: Wired ethernet
It adapts to: Other Wi-Fi variants
Add more connections by: Installing a wireless PC card or router (PC cards will talk to one other device or network at a time, while routers can network dozens)
Though the actual 802.11n standard is still being finalized, compatible hardware is already common. Theoretically, once the standard is complete, you'll be able to update draft-standard equipment through firmware. 802.11n improves in speed and general performance over legacy Wi-Fi standards.
Recover Files From a NAS
Lincoln Spector, PC World
Apr 26, 2010 7:37 am
After reading Recover Missing Files, Frederic Hugues asked about recovering them from a networked-attached storage (NAS) drive.
I wish I could simply tell you that my previous advise applies. Unfortunately, most of it doesn't. Your best bet is probably to call the manufacturers of your NAS and see what they recommend.
Part of the problem is that Windows doesn't treat a network drive the same as a local one. It can't. The network drive is already being controlled by its own local operating system (which might be Windows, but in the case of a NAS drive, probably not). When you select a file on a network drive and press the Delete key, all Windows can really do is tell the other OS to delete it. (By the way, this one-OS-working-through-another situation allows you network access of Mac or Linux drives that aren't using a Windows-compatible file system.)
Because Windows doesn't do the deleting, the file won't show up in Windows' recycle bin. It's possible that the NAS operating system has its own recycle bin (perhaps with a different name), but you can't access it through the familiar desktop icon. Check your NAS drive's manual to find out if they offer something like this and how to access it.
Nor can Windows-based file recovery programs like Recuva Portable and File-Rescue Plus work over a network. They need to run directly on the OS that's controlling the hard drive, which must be formatted with a file system they understand.
Will it help to remove the drive from the container and attach it directly to your PC? Probably not. Most NAS systems use Linux, and don't use the Windows-friendly file systems FAT or NTFS. You stand a better chance of success attaching one to a Linux machine and running Linux file recovery software, but that may not work, either. Not all NAS systems use the standard Linux File System.
And if you have two or more drives working together as an array to enhance speed and capacity, that adds a whole other layer of complexity. (On the other hand, if you're using an array for redundancy, your chances of recovery are considerably better. Check your NAS manual or call technical support for advice.)
Finally, two pieces of advice I gave in the earlier article still apply. If you have a good, recent backup, you can restore the files from that. And if you don't have a good backup, the NAS manual and tech support don't help, and your data is worth spending a lot of money, you can use a data recovery service like Ontrack or DriveSavers. Just make sure they know what type of NAS system contained these drives and whether they were part of a RAID.
I wish I could simply tell you that my previous advise applies. Unfortunately, most of it doesn't. Your best bet is probably to call the manufacturers of your NAS and see what they recommend.
Part of the problem is that Windows doesn't treat a network drive the same as a local one. It can't. The network drive is already being controlled by its own local operating system (which might be Windows, but in the case of a NAS drive, probably not). When you select a file on a network drive and press the Delete key, all Windows can really do is tell the other OS to delete it. (By the way, this one-OS-working-through-another situation allows you network access of Mac or Linux drives that aren't using a Windows-compatible file system.)
Because Windows doesn't do the deleting, the file won't show up in Windows' recycle bin. It's possible that the NAS operating system has its own recycle bin (perhaps with a different name), but you can't access it through the familiar desktop icon. Check your NAS drive's manual to find out if they offer something like this and how to access it.
Nor can Windows-based file recovery programs like Recuva Portable and File-Rescue Plus work over a network. They need to run directly on the OS that's controlling the hard drive, which must be formatted with a file system they understand.
Will it help to remove the drive from the container and attach it directly to your PC? Probably not. Most NAS systems use Linux, and don't use the Windows-friendly file systems FAT or NTFS. You stand a better chance of success attaching one to a Linux machine and running Linux file recovery software, but that may not work, either. Not all NAS systems use the standard Linux File System.
And if you have two or more drives working together as an array to enhance speed and capacity, that adds a whole other layer of complexity. (On the other hand, if you're using an array for redundancy, your chances of recovery are considerably better. Check your NAS manual or call technical support for advice.)
Finally, two pieces of advice I gave in the earlier article still apply. If you have a good, recent backup, you can restore the files from that. And if you don't have a good backup, the NAS manual and tech support don't help, and your data is worth spending a lot of money, you can use a data recovery service like Ontrack or DriveSavers. Just make sure they know what type of NAS system contained these drives and whether they were part of a RAID.
Share Wireless Safely with Friends
Lincoln Spector, PC World
May 10, 2010 7:40 am
USANomad asked the Answer Line forum how he can let visiting friends wirelessly access the Internet while protecting the PCs on his network.
Before you worry about protecting your network from friends visiting your home, you need to secure it from less trustworthy strangers. This involves password-protecting your WiFi network. Since I don't own your router, I can't tell you exactly how to do this. (The image here is of my router.) Check your router's manual for instructions.
Your router will probably offer several encryption options. Go with WPA2 encryption. It's secure, and unless someone visits with a very old laptop, there should be no compatibility problems. If there are, WPA is your second-best choice. Avoid WEP encryption unless it's absolutely necessary.
And whatever encryption you pick, choose a strong password.
Of course, you'll have to share that password with those visiting friends. Keep it in a text file on a flash drive. Then you can just plug the flash drive into your friend's laptop and copy and paste the password. (Why not use something like Password Safe? Because your friend might have a Mac or Linux PC that can't run Windows software.)
Your friends can now get onto your network and thus, onto the Internet. So how do you keep them from accessing other computers on the network? Assuming, of course, that you don't think asking them nicely is sufficient.
One simple solution is to turn off file sharing on your computer:
* If you're using XP, click Start, right-click My Network Places, and select Properties. From the top menu, selectAdvanced, then Advanced Settings. Uncheck File and Printer Sharing for Microsoft Networks.
* Vista users can click Start, right-click My Network Places,and select Properties. Expand the File sharing section andTurn off file sharing. Click Apply.
*For Windows 7, click Start, type advanced sharing and select Manage advanced sharing settings. Select Turn off file and printer sharing.
If you want to share folders with family but not friends, you can control who has access to them over the network:
* In Vista, click Start, right-click Network, and selectProperties. Expand the File sharing section and Turn on file sharing. Click Apply. Expand the Password protected sharing section and Turn on password protected sharing.Click Apply.
* Windows 7 users should click Start, type advanced sharing, and select Manage advanced sharing settings. Select Turn on file and printer sharing. Scroll down a bit and select Turn on password protected sharing.
* Officially, there's no way to do this in XP. But for a workaround, click here and scroll down the page to the headline "Protect Shared Folders."
Finally, if a folder contains really sensitive information, don't share that folder. Or better yet, store it in an encrypted vault, and open that vault only when you need what's inside. I recommend the free, open-source Truecrypt for this job.
There are other options. The original forum discussioncontains a discussion on setting up a router with two networks--one private and one public.
Add your comments to this article below. If you have other tech questions, email them to me at answer@pcworld.com, or post them to a community of helpful folks on the PCW Answer Line forum.
Before you worry about protecting your network from friends visiting your home, you need to secure it from less trustworthy strangers. This involves password-protecting your WiFi network. Since I don't own your router, I can't tell you exactly how to do this. (The image here is of my router.) Check your router's manual for instructions.
Your router will probably offer several encryption options. Go with WPA2 encryption. It's secure, and unless someone visits with a very old laptop, there should be no compatibility problems. If there are, WPA is your second-best choice. Avoid WEP encryption unless it's absolutely necessary.
And whatever encryption you pick, choose a strong password.
Of course, you'll have to share that password with those visiting friends. Keep it in a text file on a flash drive. Then you can just plug the flash drive into your friend's laptop and copy and paste the password. (Why not use something like Password Safe? Because your friend might have a Mac or Linux PC that can't run Windows software.)
Your friends can now get onto your network and thus, onto the Internet. So how do you keep them from accessing other computers on the network? Assuming, of course, that you don't think asking them nicely is sufficient.
One simple solution is to turn off file sharing on your computer:
* If you're using XP, click Start, right-click My Network Places, and select Properties. From the top menu, selectAdvanced, then Advanced Settings. Uncheck File and Printer Sharing for Microsoft Networks.
* Vista users can click Start, right-click My Network Places,and select Properties. Expand the File sharing section andTurn off file sharing. Click Apply.
*For Windows 7, click Start, type advanced sharing and select Manage advanced sharing settings. Select Turn off file and printer sharing.
If you want to share folders with family but not friends, you can control who has access to them over the network:
* In Vista, click Start, right-click Network, and selectProperties. Expand the File sharing section and Turn on file sharing. Click Apply. Expand the Password protected sharing section and Turn on password protected sharing.Click Apply.
* Windows 7 users should click Start, type advanced sharing, and select Manage advanced sharing settings. Select Turn on file and printer sharing. Scroll down a bit and select Turn on password protected sharing.
* Officially, there's no way to do this in XP. But for a workaround, click here and scroll down the page to the headline "Protect Shared Folders."
Finally, if a folder contains really sensitive information, don't share that folder. Or better yet, store it in an encrypted vault, and open that vault only when you need what's inside. I recommend the free, open-source Truecrypt for this job.
There are other options. The original forum discussioncontains a discussion on setting up a router with two networks--one private and one public.
Add your comments to this article below. If you have other tech questions, email them to me at answer@pcworld.com, or post them to a community of helpful folks on the PCW Answer Line forum.
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